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Holiday Time, Gary Boyle, Published on 25/12/2019
» It begins with a magic trick. Your waiter presents a pot of seeds, closes the lid, then abracadabra! Two meringues appear inside. They come with a small plastic bag of crispy rice, and, the waiter informs us, the bag is edible. As a culinary curtain-opener of an eight-course meal, this is a hint of the intricate delights to come.