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  • News & article

    Peppy Peppina

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 07/11/2014

    » These days in Bangkok, it's not just about choosing simply "pizza" for dinner, but what style of pizza you'd prefer. It's a good problem, after all, but we'll have to get used to such discernment. In the latest contender in the pizza race, the team behind Appia has delivered Peppina, a bustling mid-Sukhumvit spread that has somehow become everything from a Sunday evening pizzeria to a Friday night hot spot. It has only been open a few months and it's already full, all the time, so book in advance — something else that will need getting used to in this city. The kitchen dominates the warehouse-style room to good effect, involving you right in the action among the countless food and floor staff buzzing about the place. It's great for big groups (definitely book), and during our early sitting we were flanked by two tables of at least 10, who were easily accommodated. Nooks in the back section (under the stylish wall tiles that spell "Peppina") offer more intimacy for smaller groups. Overall, there's room for 80 or so.

  • News & article

    Sushi supreme

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 17/10/2014

    » While the arrival of another sushi restaurant in Bangkok might elicit groans instead of grins, Sushi Ichi is not your average semi-frozen fish dispenser. The Michelin-starred original incarnation exists in retail mecca Ginza in Tokyo, which conjures images of the famed Sukiyabashi Jiro restaurant of Jiro Dreams of Sushi documentary. Its basement setting is not unlike a Tokyo subway station location — a little unusual for Bangkok but completely normal in the homeland. The cosy dimensions are split into two rooms for 12 and 14 diners, with a narrow corridor connecting the two. The indirect lighting and ample use of hinoki wood (sourced locally) soften voices and light, transporting you seemingly far away from the bustling Ratchaprasong intersection just outside. An indirectly shared experience in the counter-style rooms, present during our lunch visit were well-dressed pairs of locals, execs eating alone and a Japanese couple that seemed right at home.

  • News & article

    Scando stylings

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 12/10/2014

    » Cast aside any thoughts of amicable mass murderers when considering this bright new all-day venue in Sathon. Set in a cosy square space on an accessible soi, the style is a mishmash of cafes and restaurants you could find in any global city of style, particularly Copenhagen where the main partner spent her formative years. There are plenty of details for the aesthetics crowd to enjoy (courtesy of the other main partner) including high and low timber tables, recycled timber, a signature wall of light-bulbed letters and some arrangements that cater well to groups (book those early, particularly on weekends). The crowd is a 50-50 split between local and farang, with a stream of homesick Scandinavians getting their Euro fix. It’s good for a coffee, meal, drink, or more. There’s room for about 40 comfortably, and two narrow smoking perches outside.

  • News & article

    Sets to impress

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 26/09/2014

    » And Bo.lan has a new home. The dynamic culinary duo behind the original incarnation over on Sukhumvit Soi 26, Duangporn "Bo" Songvisava and Dylan Jones, have transplanted themselves to Soi 53 and spread out into a more spacious (and stylish) premises not far from the Thong Lor BTS. While they had plenty of renovations to do, Dylan assures us, it seems the place has been there for decades with an already settled feel. Again, it's a house set among a well-kept garden — this time with a pool — that colour the main view and light source of the moodily-lit house. It seems they are enjoying the bigger space, particularly in the kitchen apparently, again creating a transporting effect through the portal driveway entrance to the secluded surrounds. There's enough room for 60 diners (80 at a push), with two private rooms available. They are pushing the environmental aspects of the place, (which is still largely overlooked in this city of appearances), reducing waste, installing LED lights and recycling organic matter and grey water. They are also moving towards being carbon-zero and hope to achieve this by 2018, which by then the city should have a better handle on such issues (and the real definition of words such as "farmer's" and "organic"). During our mid-week afternoon sitting, many local Thong Lor ladies were lunching with their well-dressed mums, but things get decidedly more moody in the evenings with all the mood lighting and timber, and the crowd morphs accordingly. Tunes sound like reminiscent of a molam Paradise Bangkok party, right in line with the other sensory stimulus.

  • News & article

    Comfort canteen

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 27/06/2014

    » Almost every inner Bangkok hood has an Italian restaurant by now. Good for you if you live in Narathiwat/Sathon (Sensi/Il Bolognese) or mid-Sukhumvit (Appia/Bella Napoli). But there are still some holes to fill and La Cantina was targeted at doing just that south of Asok on Sukhumvit Soi 16. It’s a curious soi, with plenty of local office worker traffic during the day and a trickle of punters at night, but just enough to keep La Cantina afloat from both services it seems. The modest cafe-style shophouse is courtesy of local expat Luca from Piemont, Italy. He has opened in a tough climate, as have many others. Inside is a homely spread of casual dining for around 35 pax with some very recognisable Italian emblems on show. It’s fuss-free and won’t woo a first date, but mightn’t have you recognised by any social media scourers either.

  • News & article

    Med spread at Moko

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 07/05/2014

    » Located in one of the burgeoning leafy sois of mid-Sathon, Moko Coffee & Eatery is a recent addition to the daytime dining scene of the city. It’s located just round the corner from some fair competition in Rocket, the Swedish-tinged brunch juggernaut. But at Moko the trajectory is of a different Euro-flavour, with an unashamed Mediterranean bent, executed with panache and poise. Modelled on (multi) shophouse proportions, the interior is an airy open-plan room of blacks and whites with plenty of natural light and an easy ambience to welcome you in off the street. The soft jazz sets the tone right, and you can almost feel the heat and bustle outside slipping away as you dip your croissant in your coffee. The crowd is a mix of Europeans trying to feel closer to home and well-heeled local residents that know their latte from their larb.

  • News & article

    Urban Isan barn

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 25/04/2014

    » After an extended golden era of European dining in Bangkok, it seems that the city is ready to get back to doing what it should and does do best — be Thai. And a wave of new eateries are bringing authentic Thai cuisine back to Bangkok, in a modern setting and without the inflated Euro-centric price points. Opened in November, Z Cafe is a slick conversion of a shophouse into the obligatory industrial-chic interior complete with exposed brick wall sections, filament light bulbs and some handy use of plumbing in shelves. Downstairs houses enough room for around 30 diners that can look out onto the sub soi, which can get pretty colourful at night with the neighbouring entertainment venues of the area. Upstairs is a cosy space for another 30-35 diners — perfect for a private group(s), as was happening the night we visited. And the kitchen is on the third floor (sorry wait staff). The measured ambience is no fluke, however, as the place is associated with the Anna’s in Phuket and the Anna’s Cafe chain. The crowd is mainly Thai at this stage, with the area’s office workers embracing the Thai menu and the comfortable air-con interior. The cheesy pop soundtrack could do with a little refining, but with the mood set right, the rest is up to the kitchen.

  • News & article

    Tasty island treats

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 31/01/2014

    » With a name that means island in Thai (in case you missed it), a big element here is, you guessed it, the tranquil and tropical surrounds that Samui is now world-famous for. Designed by the famous Bensley Design Studio, the restaurant and bar is perched high up at the deluxe resort so takes in all the villas and jungle right down to the beach and beyond. It's definitely distracting enough to abandon any monetary sensibilities for a meal. The deck is open-air, exposed to the elements to maximise the scenery, and the gentle breeze lets your big-city worries recede quickly into the background. Most people are too distracted by the view to notice the design of the structure with its natural timbers and black marble. The space is big enough for about 70 diners, mostly of which stay in the resort even though its open to outside visitors (tick).

  • News & article

    Rocket science

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 30/08/2013

    » From the average to the cosy to the indulgent, Bangkok has had close to the full spectrum of brunch options to deliver your weekly fix of eggs and caffeine on lazy weekend mornings. The only thing missing it seemed was a venue that combined all the elements. That was until two months ago, when Rocket opened its doors in Sathon. And the owners have the measurements right, in perfect, Nasa-worthy proportions.

  • News & article

    Homestyle haven

    Guru, Richard Mcleish, Published on 05/07/2013

    » There has been a lot of talk about homestyle kitchens in Bangkok of late, to the point where it feels like you're being short changed by a dish that isn't couriered in from the countryside directly to your table. But there's no need to feel left out for not having a grandma at home to cook for you, as one kitchen in Thong Lor is more than making up for it, bringing slices of rare regional Thailand to the big city.

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