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  • News & article

    Serious about noodles

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 01/06/2012

    » The sensibilities of the committed noodle connoisseur are very finely calibrated.

  • News & article

    Cabbie's tip-off yields reward

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 15/06/2012

    » Food-alert diners-out know that taxi drivers, like policemen, can be rich sources of information on where to go for a good meal. If you are riding in a cab, begin chatting with the driver, and manage to steer the conversation away from politics you will often be surprised at the wealth of culinary information, including recipes, that will suddenly fill the discourse.

  • News & article

    In all Modesty

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 22/06/2012

    » There is a type of Thai restaurant here in Bangkok that might not look especially interesting at first glance. The outside is ordinary and unremarkable and the decor inside is simple: tables and chairs that look well-worn but clean and not shabby, menus that have obviously been around for a while, a kind of relaxed, lived-in atmosphere. But a closer look reveals certain details that send special signals to the tutored eye.

  • News & article

    Artful eatery's a real find

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 06/07/2012

    » Fai Klom Thana looks so typical and unremarkable among its surroundings on Vibhavadi Soi 11 that, as with so many good small restaurants in Bangkok, it is easy to drive right past it, unaware that high-art cooking is going on inside. But on a recent Saturday afternoon, Ung-aang Talay and food-alert friend AB were on the lookout for the place, following up on a recommendation from a hard-to-please chef who had visited it and left impressed.

  • News & article

    Oodles of flavour

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 13/07/2012

    » Long experience has taught Ung-aang Talay (U-a T) to keep expectations low when approaching noodle dishes served anywhere except in certain kinds of roadside kui tio shops and market stalls.

  • News & article

    For the love of larb

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 27/07/2012

    » Once upon a time in Bangkok, som tum was referred to a sugary papaya salad served with coconut rice. In the misty past it was a lunchtime favourite among society women who used to munch it at Dachanee or on the porch of the old Sorn Daeng.

  • News & article

    Going Chinese

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 10/08/2012

    » Mention of the word "goose" in the context of Bangkok dining triggers a Pavlovian mechanism in Ung-aang Talay that leads to a mealtime visit either to Chua Kim Heng in Phattanakan or to Kui Tio Pet Jao Thaa across from the Harbour Authority, both of which serve versions of traditional Chinese haan phalo (Chinese-style aromatic stewed goose) so delectable that U-a T had never felt motivated to look further.

  • News & article

    Perfect end to Ramadan

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 24/08/2012

    » Soi Chokechai 4 is one of those after-dark eating and convening places (Sukhumvit Soi 38 is another) where open-air restaurants and an army of vendors join forces to offer dishes of all kinds to a surging and noisy crowd.

  • News & article

    Surprises from the South

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 31/08/2012

    » Ask a food-savvy Bangkokian to name some southern Thai dishes and you'll usually hear the same list: kaeng tai pla, kaeng lueang, pat sataw, khua kling, khao yam, some kind of fish fried with turmeric _ in other words, the usual. And no wonder, because these dishes, plus a few others, define the boundaries as far as most Bangkok restaurants are concerned.

  • News & article

    Hot in the city

    Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 07/09/2012

    » Time really does devour all things, and seems to have an especially voracious appetite for the quality of the food served at once-favourite restaurants. How many times have you gone to a place you once revered but have been away from for a few years only to find that the dish you went back there for, even correcting for the heightened allure imparted by nostalgia, wasn't quite what it once was?

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