Showing 1-3 of 3 results
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Crouching classics, Hidden Innovations
Holiday Time, Noel Maclean, Published on 27/12/2017
» If you’re the sort of Cantonese cuisine fan who doesn’t handle change well, you have nothing to worry about at Shang Palace, the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok’s 2nd incarnation restaurant of that ilk: it’s never going to stop perfecting its ha gao with whole shrimp, Peking duck or monk jumped over the wall soup. But fads and fashions come and go, and inevitably some dishes fare better than others over the long haul.
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Teleport to Tokyo
Holiday Time, Noel Maclean, Published on 01/12/2016
» In a few years, when the underground line being built beside it is completed, Hagi might be one of the best-connected Japanese restaurants in this fair city. Until then, Phahon Yothin MRT is your nearest station and the mega infrastructure project is requiring radical, though well signposted, redirection of the traffic.
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Trails from the riverbank
Life, Noel Maclean, Published on 06/12/2012
» Under the midday sun, the view from Trader Vic's multi-ethnic cuisine restaurant is of a broad reach of river flowing fast to the sea such as inspired Joseph Conrad's tales of hapless expats getting lost in translation. The Chao Phraya - River of Kings, if you will - feels steeped in history and continues to evoke an age of romance. Forgetting the condos rising along its edge and focusing instead on high-gloss rice barges turned gin palaces moored closer by, just the sight of it makes you feel like rowing out to a schooner moored midstream and setting sale for the fictional Vic's spiritual home in Polynesia. One might also imagine the legendary bon vivant stepping ashore and emerging between a riot of waxen foliage with his mates, like an earlier age Anthony Bourdain in search of exotic culinary sensations with which to treat his compadres on his eventual return home. The welcome, a Thai-style orchid garland hung around your neck in a thin rendition of the Hawaiian custom, adds more to the atmosphere.
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