Sukhothai gastronomy : Praphan helped her late mother grillfish for more than 30 years. Today sheruns the business with the help of herhusband. Every morning, her staff willclean fish and let them dry before grillingthem overnight on a long and largestove. The source of the heat is burningcoconut shells topped with sawdust.While grilling, the fish is covered by paperboxes to keep in the heat and fumes.