Showing 1-10 of 10 results
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Pure and simple
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 04/10/2013
» Nowadays you have to be ready to do some serious detective work to find a restaurant where standard Thai dishes are cooked in a way that discerning Thais of earlier generations won't shrug off.
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Flavours of yesteryear
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 24/05/2013
» They still do exist, you know: real raan khao gaeng _ curry shops _ where the cook pounds the nam prik personally and takes the time to squeeze genuine, fresh coconut cream, separating it into the hua (first pressing) and the haang, instead of opening a container of dairy milk or (in hanging-offence cases) a can of evaporated milk.
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Obscure objects of desire
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 19/04/2013
» If there is such a thing as a culinary endangered species, a type of dining establishment that occupies the same doomed territory as the Asian golden cat, the bumblebee bat and the Javan rhino, it is probably the small, informal restaurant, owned and operated by the same family for many years, where exceptional food is prepared using personal recipes that have been polished to perfection over time.
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Off the eaten track
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 15/03/2013
» You can usually be sure of a good meal if you're being taken to a restaurant you've never tried before by a friend who knows what you like. A recommendation from a co-worker with reliable foodie instincts will also generally lead to good things. But there's a lot to be said for playing it less safe, heading into unknown territory for a meal at a restaurant you've chosen just because you like the look of it.
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Northern heat
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 21/09/2012
» A craving for the nuclear heat of southern Thai food has steered Ung-aang Talay to so many southern food shops recently that when some friends suggested a visit to Gedhawa, a restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 35 that specialises in northern cuisine, U-a T leapt at the opportunity for a change.
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Oodles of flavour
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 13/07/2012
» Long experience has taught Ung-aang Talay (U-a T) to keep expectations low when approaching noodle dishes served anywhere except in certain kinds of roadside kui tio shops and market stalls.
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Artful eatery's a real find
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 06/07/2012
» Fai Klom Thana looks so typical and unremarkable among its surroundings on Vibhavadi Soi 11 that, as with so many good small restaurants in Bangkok, it is easy to drive right past it, unaware that high-art cooking is going on inside. But on a recent Saturday afternoon, Ung-aang Talay and food-alert friend AB were on the lookout for the place, following up on a recommendation from a hard-to-please chef who had visited it and left impressed.
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In all Modesty
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 22/06/2012
» There is a type of Thai restaurant here in Bangkok that might not look especially interesting at first glance. The outside is ordinary and unremarkable and the decor inside is simple: tables and chairs that look well-worn but clean and not shabby, menus that have obviously been around for a while, a kind of relaxed, lived-in atmosphere. But a closer look reveals certain details that send special signals to the tutored eye.
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Cabbie's tip-off yields reward
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 15/06/2012
» Food-alert diners-out know that taxi drivers, like policemen, can be rich sources of information on where to go for a good meal. If you are riding in a cab, begin chatting with the driver, and manage to steer the conversation away from politics you will often be surprised at the wealth of culinary information, including recipes, that will suddenly fill the discourse.
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Serious about noodles
Life, Ung-Aang Talay, Published on 01/06/2012
» The sensibilities of the committed noodle connoisseur are very finely calibrated.
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